Ireland trip: Day 3 & 4 Killarney

The train to Killarney was uneventful (well, except for the screaming 2 year old, but her poor mother looked so miserable that I didn't complain for the 4 hours). Killarney skies were drizzling a bit, but I easily found my way to the B&B right outside of town. My room was almost palatial in comparison to the Roxford Lodge, but not quite as homey. I promptly took a nap and headed off into town. However, Monday night during the winter season in a little town is not exactly exciting and after wandering the town for over 2 hours looking for a place to eat I succumbed to Eddie Rocket's (yes, just like Johnny Rocket's). I had a pineapple burger with real Irish beef and promptly spilled my entire cup of water all over myself. Oh well. I was tired and headed back to the B&B hoping the next day would be a little more exciting.

Breakfast! That's what I woke up thinking about. I got a full breakfast with the B&B and coming into the dinning room I was not disappointed. All the cold breakfast items as well as a menu of what could be cooked warm for me. I had the mini pancakes and Irish bacon which was perfect and filling for the day ahead: walking the national park! The skies were a bit ominous but it didn't seem too bad. I had gotten a map in town the day before with hiking/walking trails. Unfortunately for me, I misread it and didn't realize there was not a path from Ross Castle to the Muckrose House. This meant that once I got the 2 km to Ross Castle, I would have to retrace my steps and then go an additional 4km. Oh well. Ross Castle was fun and although it was raining, it was only drizzling...nothing to worry about.

The 4km down to the national park was uneventful and after getting lost of bit, I stumbled onto Muckrose Abbey, a shell of a previous church now grown into the forest and graves surrounding it. The roof collapsed years ago, but being the only person there I was not too keen to go inside. I found a path eventually that led to Muckrose Farms. The cows were out and about, some enjoying the rain and others huddled around the trees trying to keep dry. I finally started seeing people and as I turned the corner caught sight of Muckrose House, a large estate house right next to Killarney Lakes. As I approached the house, the wind whipped off the lakes in a big gust and practically blew me into the reception area. The tour was 7 euros, too pricey for my taste,  so I asked for directions to the restaurant and made my way there where I had to date my most disappointing meal. Soggy quiche and overly sweet berry tea. Ugh.

Oh well. I braced myself and decided to hike to the famous Torc waterfall and maybe stroll along the Mossy Nature Trail. However, coming outside I realized I should probably just go for the waterfall. The wind had picked up as well as the rain and I knew most of the way was next to the lake. This is where my Ernst-sized adventure began.

Coming along the lake the wind picked up along with the rain. I knew once I got behind trees things would get better. White caps dotted the lake and I could barely see the huge mountains on the opposite side. Once in the forest, the wind was less but created such a massive noise in the trees it scared me at first. It sounded like a plane was landing right above. By now, I could relax and enjoy the scenery. "This isn't too bad," I thought prematurely. And then I turned the bend and saw where the path led. An open meadow. Next to the lakes. Crap!

The rain by now was coming down in diagonal sheets, but I was determined to get to that waterfall! Facing into the wind, I started the 5 minute walk across the meadow. There were only 2 really big gusts that almost blew me off my feet, but I turned my back into it until it passed. By the time I got to the actual mountain, my jeans were soaked through but I was still pretty warm. The actual hike up to the waterfall wasn't very strenuous at all and I was happy I had walked there. The waterfall was especially violent due to the rain and looked like the kind of place that poets and painters would come to. If it wasn't pouring. About this time I started to realize that not only would I have to hike back to Muckrose House, but also back into town. I toyed with the idea of getting a taxi, but held off on a decision. Back across the meadow I went with my waterproof jacket getting damp. This time the wind was at my back which made it easier so no more falling over, but still as wet. By the time I got back to Muckrose House and the man at reception mentioned that the weather was "deteriorating", I had already decided to cut out whatever was needed in my trip budget to get that taxi.

The man at reception was lovely and quickly called me a taxi looking sympathetically at my soaked jeans, jackets, hat and backpack. The taxi driver was also sympathetic saying that walking the 5 miles back would not be fun. Five miles! My map lied! Five miles later and 10 euros poorer I peeled off my jeans at the B&B only to discover they had turned my legs completely blue! After a warm shower and scrub and a much needed nap, I was ready to relax. Thankfully I had pre-booked an in-house massage and cheerful Rose took me to the Tranquility Suite for my "Relaxing Moments Massage". A combination of back, neck, head and facial massage with reflexology, it was just what I needed. The reflexology was especially interesting. I had just figured at least it would be a good foot massage but poking around on my feet, Rose correctly diagnosed all my health issues from the past 12 months ("So you've got TMJ?" as my poor big toe screamed in pain). Who knew your feet could tell so much?

After 30 minutes of post-massage relaxing (happy back, happy feet), I headed out to town for round two of restaurant searching. To my pleasant surprise, shops were actually open including the ice cream shop that advertised luxurious hot chocolate. Hooray! Murphy's Ice Cream from Dingle makes homemade ice cream using Irish cream and milk and WOW was that hot chocolate good! No powdered mix here!

I did some shopping at Penneys (no relation to JC Penney's) and bought some cheap, but cute tights in grey and eggplant. They'll be super warm once the snow hits. For dinner, I decided on Lord Kenmare's, a usually froo-froo place that had one special that caught my attention: warm pigeon salad. It was cheaper than the burger across the street and the atmosphere looked classy. Served with two really amazing breads, the salad had perfectly cooked pigeon with mixed greens and purple potatoes in hazelnut oil. So good. I finished off with a cappuccino intending to head to O'Connors for live music night, but I found myself almost falling asleep in the restaurant. I packed up my things and headed on out, the rain now stopped.

So now I'm caught up on blogs. Sitting here in the lounge, I'm typing while watching the Man United game with the B&B owner's retired father who watches the place for her on Tuesday nights so she can get out. The weather is supposed to be horrid tomorrow so I'm hoping to get a coach tour of the Ring of Kerry. We'll see. I'm getting used to small town life. I'm such a city girl though it's a bit tough. Many people told me Dublin was nothing special, just another city, but I really liked Dublin. It was different, urban and gritty with great energy. I'm savoring my moments here in Killarney and hoping the weather may improve the last few days so I can do some more hiking. Until tomorrow, Slán go fóill!