Paris--Day 5

The last three days of my trip are pretty much plan as I go. I didn't really think through the last few days just because I wanted to freedom to see something and do it. So as I woke up this morning and saw the sunshine instead of gloomy clouds, I knew it would be a perfect day to head to the Sacre Coeur.

The Basilique du Sacre Coeur the highest point in Paris and it's also the bohemian part of Paris called Montmatre. It took me a little longer than usual to get there because it was rush hour Metro traffic, but the payoff was that hardly anyone was there when I got there. Sacre Coeur is much newer than any of the European places of worship I've visited, but I found that it's much more welcoming as well. The dome allows more light to come in than a place like Notre-Dame. They don't allow pictures at all inside, which I like because it forces you to sit, look and remember. The front altar is gorgeous with a gigantic Jesus surrounded by saints as well as people from all over the world coming to bring him gifts. The Holy Spirit is depicted as a dove right above his head and above that is I think what was supposed to be God the Father, but it just looks kind of like a well dressed member of ZZtop. Oh well. Two out of three ain't bad.

Sacre-Coeur also feels like a real church instead of just a tourist attraction. They had some great information sections on baptism, communion and confirmation as well as updates on their prayer services. The confessionals are super high tech and look like private little offices. This church seems to be a big part of their community as I saw everyone from little French grandmas to cleaning ladies to young men in track suits coming to pray or read their Bibles.

Unfortunately, around 9:30AM, the tour bus crowd showed up and the whole atmosphere changed. The locals quickly finished up and left and the poor church staff had to go shooshing the masses of tourists streaming in the door. I went outside and was shocked to see the formerly empty area full of tourists and street vendors. The wind had also picked up quite strongly so I headed down as quickly as I could. On the way down, I was approached by several scam artists, but because of my mother's training and a heads-up from my Paris forum friends, I knew to ignore them. Unfortunately, I watched an Italian family get snatched up by one scam artist. What they do is greet you in what they figure is your native language and then tie a bracelet around your wrist when you stop. Most tourists think it's a gift, but soon find out that the scam artist wants money...now, not unlike the window washers at stop lights.

I decided to take a round about way back to my apartment to avoid walking so much when changing trains. As I was on my second route, I noticed I was going right past Printemps who is having a sale! I got off right away and browsed a bit, but everything was still too pricey even at 50% off. Because it was close to the time for the first guided tour at the Opera Garnier, I headed down and got my ticket early and just sat to rest my foot.

I cannot recommend this tour enough! The lovely French tour guide was constantly apologizing for her poor English, but overall it was just fine, only a few strange words or pronunciations (she would say "spectators" instead of "patrons"). She explained all the social intricacies of coming to the Opera in the the 19th century and all the fun stories about how and why it was built. For all you Phantom fans, I hate to tell you, but there is no underground lake. There used to be a swamp, but they drained that (pumped 12 hours a day for 8 months!), and used the water to fill a tank which is below the stage and acts as a counterweight. The chandelier never fell, but a counterweight for it did, killing a cleaning woman who had gotten a free ticket and was going to the Opera for the first time.

While we were taking the tour, we got to go into the darkened auditorium where they were doing a light check for an upcoming ballet. We sat in the expensive orchestra seats as the tour guide explained about the social opportunities of going to the Opera. Case in point: the most expensive tickets during the 19th century had the absolute worst views. Why? Because they were in spots where everyone in the entire auditorium could see you and how rich you were. Opera was not for the music or show, it was to be seen. Some boxes even have their own living rooms!

After the Opera tour, I went down to the Ile Saint-Louis to once more try to find the restaurant I wanted to go to. I finally realized I was on the wrong island! I went over the bigger one and found it right away. It's a bistro called Au Bougnat and I had the set lunch of an entree plus plat (appetizer and main dish). For the appetizer, I had the soup of the day which I wasn't quite sure what it was, but it was good! I think it was cream of cauliflower or something like that. The main dish was lamb shoulder with a beer sauce and a side of couscous with candied raisins. YUM! The lamb was so tender and just fell off the bone. I loved the mix between the heaviness of the lamb, the light couscous and the sweet punch of the candied raisins. I sat next to two 40-something ladies from Colorado who were hilarious to listen to. I miss American conversation (Costco specials, teenagers, facebook issues: "You can't write a status that says 'Got a cute new haircut' and then not post a picture of it!").

After lunch, I mosied over to the Pompidou Museum which has probably the wackiest architecture in Paris. Now I like weird. I enjoy certain modern art. Heck, I love the Walker in Minneapolis! But, this place juxtaposed with the rest of Paris, just seemed ugly. Now, if it were in New York or California, awesome. But in Paris, it just seems forced. I attempted to find shoes at the nearby Sketchers store, but they were super busy and it was super expensive compared to what I'd usually pay in the US. I wandered a bit in the Marais district, but found it to be crowded and lacking charm. I decided to rest at the apartment before heading out again.

Just as the sun was setting, I went shopping at Tout Compte Fait and found the gift I wanted...someone special in Arizona will just have to wait for it! I figured I'd try walking in St. Germain des Pres for fun. Unfortunately, even at 6:30PM, most stores were closed and the Pierre Herme store was so crowded I could barely get in the door. Oh well. I wandered around some more, but got bored and decided to try the Bastille. Because of the Metro trip, I now have officially traveled Lines 1-12 of the Metro! The Bastille was busy and the Opera House was filled with people (I never found out the event). Now, I was truly bored. I walked in the Marais again and up toward Republique, but everything is closed. Everything. So, there's not much to do or see unless you like clubbing (which is SO not me). I finally gave in, took the Metro back to home sweet home station Republique. I passed the bakery, but they had a horrific line so I didn't bother stopping in for a munchie.

Now, I'm trying to decide what to do for my last full day in Paris. I know I want to head out to Cafe Constant for lunch and get more chocolate at Pierre Herme, but what else? Any ideas?